Spring fever has a different connotation on the farm. It relates to a feverish pace, not to taking it easy. I planned to move the newsletter to Sunday or Monday but am now getting to it Tuesday evening only because of the drizzle.
Mostly things are moving along wonderfully. We do have a couple hickups that will affect the first distribution. Waiting to plant tomatoes until that big frost threat was over pushed us back on seeding radishes, salad turnips, etc,, and I tilled in the spinach planned for the first couple of weeks because it had very very few plants. Better to start over with another seeding, but the spinach will be later. Arugula, Asian greens, and lettucy mix are in and coming up nicely. I do have a couple surprises in my back pocket for the first couple weeks to offset the loss of the crunchies.
I am using an iPhone on a prepaid plan. It fits in my pants pocket so is handy. I am trying to keep our field records, to do lists, time logs, etc on it. Since it is handy I have been taking photos, so this newsletter has lots of photos. If you follow us on Facebook you have seem some of these, but not all.
I held off planting the tomatoes until after the big freeze since it was easier to protect them concentrated in their pots and trays than planted out. We took every available bucket, barrel, jug, harvest bin, etc down, surrounded the tomatoes as much as we could, filled the containers with water, and then draped 4 or 5 layers of row cover over all to hold the warmth from the water in. Barely made it through the first night because the day had been cloudy and the water didn’t heat up much. Second day was sunny and the temp under the row cover only went down to 46. This weekend it got scary again, and the plants were already planted. We spread the barrels again and around and filled them with water. Color does make a difference – the water in the black recycling containers and rust barrels heated up much more than the water in the white buckets did. On the sunny days even the soil, particularly if moist, absorbs heat that it releases back at night. We wet the soil down because the days were sunny. It worked.
Getting tomatoes planted at a younger stage is much better. Only one variety showed any sign of becoming at all rootbound, and even its roots weren’t “circling” yet. But look at the new root growth just 36 hours after being taken out of the pot and planted in the ground. This was Bobcat, the varity closest to rootbound, and you can see the old roots lower left that were at the edge of the 4″ pots. We had hauled in buckets of compost for the planned tomato rows earlier, except for the center row, north half. That gorgeous spinach some of you had been eating was there. We finally took that out and I planted a few plants to get them out of their pots, expecting to haul in buckets of compost to spread around them. Then the lightbulb went off that maybe the tractor with its front bucket would fit in the north door. It just squeezed through, and made much quicker work of bringing compost in, but I hurriedly rescued the 9 tomato plants I had planted there – hence the opportunity for this photo.,
By far the most economical organic fertilizer we can get is Giroux Poultry compost. (Well, no. Their uncomposted manure would be an even better deal, but since we have poultry I want the compost that has been heated to 140 or better for disease control.) They compost it to meet OMRI organic standards. For $800 I got approximately 1000 lbs of nitrogen, 1500 lbs of phosphorus, and 1000 lbs of potassium. The truck spreads it for me. The downside is that that’s the only ratio of nutrients I get. Vegetables use lots of nitrogen and potassium but not much phosphorus, and we don’t want excess phosphorus moving into our waters. Fortunately my soil is pretty “heavy” and has a very high capacity to hold onto nutrients, and we don’t see runoff off our fields. After an unusually heavy rain (even after Irene) we will have a couple spots just off our lane that gets a maybe 4″ deep gully because the water runs down the lane and then off into the field, but then the land flattens out and gully ends out, and if soil does get to the bottom of the field it gets held in the grass strip. But, remember that’s 3500 lbs of major nutrients plus a lot of minor nutrients,
spread, for $800. This is what the field looked like in one of the spots with the most compost after the the compost was spread. The dark is the compost, the light is soil peeking through. The nutrients are not “readily available” like chemical fertilizers are. We have to wait for warm soil and active microorganisms to see the benefit, but that is the case with most other “organic” fertilizers too.
Now, remember how happy I was to get organically approved fertilizers through NOFA-VT’s bulk order at discounted prices? For fertilizer that I will have to spread, I paid $1385 for 208 lbs of nitrogen, 37 pounds of phosphorus, and 27 pounds of potassium. I don’t have a good way to apply the fertilizer – I can put an attachment on my little push seeder and walk the rows and it will make a little furrow if the ground is really soft and drop the fertilizer, but adjusting it to apply the right amount will be a major effort, and will change with each of the 4 types of fertilizer I got. I wasn’t sure I’d be able to get the compost this year because they were booked solid when I called to order, but thankfully they did squeeze me in. May try to save the fertilizer for next year, but some of it is peanut meal so might attract mice if I try to store it. Anyone have a defunct chest freezer they want to get rid of that I can use for mouse-proof storage?
Here is our first row with the new bed shaper/mulch layer. It came unassembled with minor instructions so Tony spent a couple days pouring over photos and tightening and loosening lots of bolts. We made several practice runs with just the bed shaper to get that part working well, and then it took very little adjusting to get the plastic stretched and covered. We made a couple sacrifice runs of about 100 feet, made minor adjustments and then went with this full length bed. The beds are just over 30″ wide across the top. The field does slope, which complicates settings, so we got it working well going south to north and just drove around and went in that direction for each row. We are delighted! I have 5 beds laid for onions. I’d like to not use plastic, but it allows us to plant more closely to make use of space, and controls weeds, and warms the soil for faster spring growth. In a couple of years we will hopefully have kept weeds under control enough we can switch to the new corn-based biodegradable “plastic” mulch. It starts breaking down in early August though, and we still have weeds germinating at that time. The photo is looking back from the tractor seat. The rolls in the bottom corners are the drip tape for irrigation. This beaut lays the drip tape about 2 inches deep, in pretty uniform lines, so we “should” be able to miss the tape when planting. Still, I’m not using a sharp pointed knife to make my holes for plants. The green plants at the right are garlic. Between the plastic and garlic is a row of just getting the bed shaped without plastic.
I was really getting worried about the potatoes I so proudly got planted early. Of course, after happily planting them in our unusually warm, dry weather, I then read an admonition to not plant too early or they would rot in the cool soil. We still have at least half to plant, on trays “chitting” in the hoophouse. Those that are in contact with the soil have sprouted and are about a foot tall. No sign of any of the plants in the field, though I barely covered them. Finally today Tony noticed them breaking through. Whew! I planted all the red and blue ones, and knew you’d be disappointed if I’d lost them. Still have some fingerlings, a couple oddballs, and all the Rehoboth Golds to plant.
A week ago this was mostly spinach and braising greens. The light green strip is baby carrots since I know ya’ll get anxious for our carrots. The larger plants are cucumbers. Between the cucumbers is the Asian greens salad mix. I have since covered them with row cover to keep those dratted flea beatles out. I am hoping by planting them up in the hoophouse I will be able to keep the row cover down and intact better than in the field. And except for volunteer tomatoes, I have good weed control in the old hoophouse.
Now for some fun/cutes. We moved the hens down onto the triticale cover crop. The ducklings are starting to hatch up by the house and the hens and geese pester the ducks and lure the ducklngs away from momma and into trouble. The geese lured one duckling out at night, and we only saved it because the geese were making such a fuss and racket over it. And we needed to get the hens onto fresh ground after winter. Ducks and geese herd surprisingly easily, but only where they are comfortable. The geese hadn’t been away from the house area. We cornered them in the winter henshed, tossed sheets over them and wrapped them in the sheets, carried them down the hill, and put them in with their friends, the hens. The ducks are still up by the house and delighted to have the area to themselves.
When the ducks settle down into serious nesting, they pull down and feathers out to line hay/etc they have made the nest of. This one went a bit overboard. Never seen such a white/fluffy nest.

And here is our first hatch of the year. Two mommas a couple days apart – first one 9, second one 10. That is about 50% hatch, which is very low for them, but the eggs went through some really cold nights before the hens seriously set.

The bees are doing well. Bringing in tan, yellow, and orange pollen. You can pretty well tell how the bees are doing by just watching them come and go. Their behavior says the queen is laying and they are happy. I do want to open it up very soon and be sure they aren’t getting crowded, which would cause them to swarm. In swarming at least half of them leave, which sets the whole process back several months while they build up numbers and a new queen. We have been feeding them a cane sugar syrup because they are building comb on new frames. One way to keep diseases down is to change out the old wax comb every few years, five at the most. I’ve read that bees fly the equivalent of more than twice around the world to make a pound of honey, and it takes 8 lbs of honey to make a pound of wax, so we are making sure they have they have “nectar” easily available. The feeder is on top of their hive, a styrofoam box with an open channel on one end that the bees can come up through, then over the top and down the other side to the sugar syrup. A piece of clear plastic keeps them from getting out into the box proper and drowning in the syrup.
Now serious business: I have gotten excellent feedback on the Wholeshare buying club. A couple expressed the same concerns I had – that it is less “local” though mostly New York, and in some ways “too much” selection. My interest is primarily in the organic grains, non-homogenized and goat milk, etc. I do have the ability to block some products, categories, and brands. But, you also can really narrow what you see by first selecting a category across the top (Produce, Meat, Dairy, Pantry), and then down the left for Categories such as flour or grains, Dietary Preference such as organic or gluten free, and by Brand. Before I decide to block products, let’s see if this makes the selection less overwhelming. Let’s take a week, and put our orders in by May 16th. Then we’ll see if we have enough, see what is needed for split cases, etc. That will give us over a week to finalize things this first time. The link to join is http://www.wholeshare.com/join/1202 . After you have joined, just go to http://www.wholeshare.com/ to login. You do have to enter a credit card before starting your order, but it won’t be charged until the order is finalized and ready for delivery. The credit card info is kept by Wholeshare – I will not see it.
We are still accepting CSA memberships. I have made the decision to drop the Saranac Lake Village Farmers Market. We don’t really have enough CSA to justify it, but do have enough to make me wonder if I will have enough extra to make going to that market worthwhile. A summer farmers market sales should be at least the equivalent of 20 full shares. I really want to redirect the time we spend on that market into doing a better job here. With the truck we can park somewhere Saturday morning, maybe south Plattsburgh to get folks familiar with us for future years. That would not be as high pressure (very agressively competitive vendors) and we’d save about three hours in driving and setup time (as well as $445 in booth fees). Our CSA options are: pickup at the farm, pickup on Draper Ave in Plattsburgh, pickup at Lake Placid Farmers Market, or we will delivery to sites along our route from the farm to Lake Placid if we have at least five full share memberships there. We have been steadily getting new members, several from references from ya’ll. We really appreciate it, thank you. Brochures/membership forms are available on our website:
Peru and Plattsburgh
Lake Placid
Have a great week!